Golden Autumn, Purple Eggplant Majesty

A shortcut for eggplant, a flavorful caponata

There were eggplants in my garden in upstate New York this year. They seemed to happen on their own. Two plants bought at a local plant sale took root, and grew over a few weeks, creating purple flowers and then stunningly real, shining eggplants. like magic! Even better than the shops or the markets.

I’m not an ambitious gardener (in fact, my assiduous husband Greg usually tackles the garden beds before I get to them), but I find joy in seeing beautiful, edible, things growing in our little garden. Breathing in the scents of the plants around me gives me hope, and a momentary sense of wonder (and then the dawning sense that there is work to do).

This year we had two types of eggplant: a pale, elongated Japanese variety, and a shorter version of the classic, inky Italian one. Both types are fantastic for grilling, but when summer ended I was stuck with the back-to-school, evening-dinner type of cooking, which can leave little room for inspiration. Consequently, the funny assortment of eggplant sat in my fridge waiting to be cooked. Twice I used slices of the pale purple eggplants in a Thai-style green curry, something like this: Lauryn's Green Curry, but with skinny eggplant simmered in the broth. And once I seasoned the slices and seared them in a blazing hot cast iron skillet, before tossing in a dressing of gochujang, maple syrup, and fish sauce, and dusting them with toasted sesame seeds. Good, but could use some fine-tuning.

This golden autumn of warm, dry days just keeps on going. Our friendly neighbors in Kinderhook hosted the annual potluck party in a field. I had imagined bringing a large thermos of mushroom soup or hot apple cider, to take the chill off as we stood around outside and socialized. But being quick to adapt is a very useful skill when cooking. With warmth and sunshine forecast (again), I pivoted to a room temperature, make-ahead classic: Caponata. Not always pretty, it is also not for everyone. But those who those who love, love. And I do.

I really like the recipe from the Via Carota cookbook, which I worked on as writer and recipe tester. Jody William’s version is not very tomatoey, and alive with the natural sweetish-sourish flavors you get from currants macerated in sherry vinegar, but without added sugar. I basically emulated that recipe but, as is my way, I winged it and went with what I had. I had a handful of fabulously sweet and tender Jimmy Nardello peppers from the farmers’ market. So I charred them first and added them to my caponata (see below).

Also, to cut down on time spent dicing and sautéing each cube of eggplant, I went a bit rogue: Here is a method that works well and saves time.

NOTE: I will provide amounts separately at the bottom, after the method:

1. Slice eggplant in thick slices and place them side by side (single layer!) in a very lightly oiled skillet. Brown all sides over medium-high heat (including the cut edge) and cook until eggplant feels tender when pressed. Remove from pan and cook the remaining slices. When all are cooked, cut them into cubes. Ta-da!

2. Now, make a flavorful base of sautéd aromatics for your caponata: celery, red onion, fennel bulb, and garlic. Chop these veg into pieces smaller than the eggplant and add more oil to the skillet; cook them, sprinkle with salt, stir often, until very tender Add a couple of small / medium tomatoes. I prefer to peel them first, and at this time of year, they can be so ripe you can lift off the peel with your fingers and crush the tomatoes with your hands directly inot the pan. Stir and cook until melting into the other vegetables.

3. Char a few small, sweet red peppers or one large bell pepper. To do this, hold the peppers over flame with tongs, and turn as the skin blackens. Once all sides are blackened, place peppers in a bowl and cover tightly to let them steam until soft. Rub off the burnt skins, pull off the stems and seeds, and chop the peppers into pieces.

4. Stir chopped peppers into the pan, and add the eggplant cubes. Drizzle with olive oil, season to taste with salt, and add chili flakes or black pepper. Transfer to a bowl.

5. NOW, the essential flourishes: Soak a small handful of dried currants in a combo of half sherry vinegar and half boiling water. When they are soft, drain and press out all liquid. Toast some pine nuts in olive oil in a small pan, shaking the pan until pine nuts are golden brown. Pit and coarsely chop some green (castelvetrano) olives. Soak some salt-packed capers in warm water, drain and rinse, then coarsely chop. (Of course you could have done all this ahead of time).

6. Stir these goodies into the eggplant mixture. Age improves this dish, so refrigerate for up to three days before serving, if you can. Bring to room temperature. Taste and adjust seasoning. Add a few splashes of vinegar, and more olive oil if you like. Chop some fennel fronds and add them.

7. Serve with slices of toasted rustic bread, and ricotta salata for topping.

   

Amounts, you said?

1 large or 2 medium eggplants

2 celery ribs

1 medium red onion

1/2 fennel bulb

3 large garlic cloves

2 small tomatoes (campari or plum)

4 skinny frying peppers or 1 medium bell pepper

1/4-1/3 cup currants

1/4 cup pinenuts

3/4 cup olives

3 tablespoons capers

Vinegar, oil, salt, pepper, chilis to eye and taste.

Talk about a glorious fall day, with good food and friendly neighbors.